The Chemicals in Hair Relaxers and Why You Should Care

Some hair relaxers include hazardous chemicals that are banned in other countries, because they are known to increase a woman’s risk of cancer. Though it isn’t unusual for personal care brands to use industrial chemicals as cosmetic ingredients, most consumers aren’t aware of how this can impact their health. Studies now confirm the link between hair relaxer usage and certain cancers, and women realize the danger of hair relaxer ingredients. Unfortunately, this information comes too late for many.

What Are Hair Relaxers Made Of?

Hair relaxer packages advertise nourishing organic ingredients, soothing oils, and gentle cream activators, but the labels do not adequately warn consumers that some chemical straighteners are also made of Bisphenol A (BPA), phthalates, parabens, formaldehyde, and metals.

Endocrine-Disrupting Chemicals in Relaxers

Some hair relaxers contain chemicals known as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) that can interfere with the body’s hormonal system and may increase users’ cancer risks. EDCs can mimic estrogen, interfere with hormone signaling, or block natural hormones from working correctly, leading to hormonal imbalances. These imbalances in turn may contribute to abnormal cell growth, which has been linked to hormone-sensitive cancers. Manufacturers have used EDCs in hair relaxer products for decades, leading to a rash of diagnoses amongst frequent users.

Phthalates

These compounds are often used to bind and stabilize cosmetics or to add scent, but can also be used in relaxer creams, shampoos, and activators. Users can absorb phthalates through skin contact or inhaling the fumes without realizing they are being exposed to EDCs. The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Hazard Summary regards this chemical as a probable human carcinogen.

Consumers who understand that phthalates in chemical relaxers increase cancer risks still may not recognize these on product labels. Cosmetic brands use abbreviations, like DEHP, short for di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate, or the words, “fragrance” or “perfume” to indicate the presence of these compounds without making the ingredient conspicuous to the consumer.

Parabens

Hair care products, including chemical relaxers, often contain paraben-based preservatives. Dermal exposure is a common route for parabens to enter our bodies. Researchers observed even low concentrations of these EDC compounds affecting hormonal systems. Parabens in chemical hair straighteners are especially harmful to a developing body, which is concerning considering that many brands market to adolescents.

Since ingredients like methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, or ethylparaben contain the word paraben, this chemical is often easier to identify. Companies now also sell ‘paraben-free’ formulas to appeal to consumers who wish to avoid this chemical, but these preparations can still contain other cancer-causing chemicals.

Bisphenol A

The EDC known as BPA was more prevalent in hair relaxers until it was banned from EU cosmetic ingredients and heavily restricted by the EPA. Skin contact during the relaxer application and processing steps exposed women to BPA. When absorbed into the scalp, BPA binds to estrogen receptors, inducing tumorigenesis, the process whereby normal cells transform into cancerous ones.

Formaldehyde

The preservative capabilities of formaldehyde make it an essential chemical for funeral directors and embalmers, which is why many women are surprised to learn it is an ingredient in chemical hair straighteners. This is usually listed on labels as formalin or methylene glycol rather than its recognizable name.

Inhalation is a common way individuals are exposed to formaldehyde in hair care products. This chemical is released into the air when treated hair is heated during shampooing or styling. Though we can now attribute the sharp chemical smell of hair relaxers to ingredients like formaldehyde, its scent shouldn’t be the only cause for alarm. As cited by the American Cancer Society, formaldehyde is a cancer-causing agent that poses serious health risks.

Metals and Alkalis

Heavy metals, including cadmium, iron, and lead, are often found in hair relaxers, though these are rarely spelled out for consumers. These metals are associated with hormone disruption and epigenetic changes that often lead to hormone-sensitive cancers, including uterine and ovarian cancer.

Cosmetic brands that do not admit to including lead, arsenic, or iron in their formulas still include some form of metallic ion, namely sodium or potassium. Most users know these as lye and no-lye hair relaxers. Sodium hydroxide is the active ingredient in lye relaxers; byproducts, including potassium, lithium, calcium, or guanidine hydroxide, are the straightening agents in no-lye formulas.

Hydroxide compounds cause burning, inflammation, sores, and other lesions that weaken the scalp. This makes women who use hair relaxers more susceptible to exposure to the host of parabens and phthalates in hair care products. When EDCs are absorbed into a woman’s bloodstream, the risk of reproductive cancers, including uterine and endometrial cancer, increases.

Manufacturers market hair relaxers as safe, but women experiencing cancer as a result of straightening their hair know better now.

Bell Legal Group is holding cosmetic companies accountable for their negligent production and marketing practices. If you or a loved one has been harmed after using a chemical hair relaxer, contact us and tell us your story!